Why the Red River Gorge is the BEST climbing in the world

I've traveled the world to pursue one of my greatest passions: Climbing.  

I've been to Peru, New Hampshire, Washington, Colorado, West Virginia, Virginia, and many places in North Carolina (Looking Glass, Ship Rock, Ashboro, Pilot, Rumbling Bald)... But of everywhere I've been climbing, there is no place I love more than the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.  This is why...

For starters, it is serenely beautiful.  I have been climbing in every month but January in the Red and each month showed a changing season and beautiful weather.  Even mid-July had its perks because there is a great swimming hole right off Mountain Parkway just a few exits down from Slade.  If you know how to plan your trip right, you can find a face with morning sun and afternoon shade so that you stay cool in the warm months.  Likewise, knowing the rainy day locations is crucial.  My personal favorite rainy day spot is Chica Bonita in Pendegrass (plus it has my favorite route: Brown Eyed Girl 5.10b slab).

The Rock.  The Red River Gorge is varied depending on what area of the gorge you are climbing in.  There is wonderful sandstone with huecos, plates, cracks, overhangs, and my personal favorite, slab.  With tons of trad and sport climbing ranging from 5.4 to a 5.15a (Southern Smoke Direct) that was placed last fall, it doesn't matter what kind of climber you are, you can find a classic five-star route in the Red.  What's more is that each area is very different.  Muir Valley has the greatest access to the most variety and the Webers have done a wonderful job of protecting the land.  The local Access Fund has done a tremendous job in maintaining the area and keeping developers out.  New routes and first ascents are still being tackled every year so the area continues to grow.

The Red River Gorge climbing guide by Ray Ellington is phenomenal.  The map, directions, and ratings are for the most part spot on and he gives you the important details of any climbing trip in the Red like the top 10 classic routes, a checklist of routes, stats on the approach/weather/ratings at each crag, and quality pictures that make you want to be a model in the next volume.  It is totally worth the $35.  And yes, there is an app for that.

 Ale 81: Kentucky's take on ginger ale is a staple to the end of any good climbing day.  Rehashing the day's journeys through cruxes and red points would not be the same without sipping on an 'Ale eight' with your buds.  Part of the gorge is in a dry county so Ale 81 is all you can get at some places, but right down KY 31 from Miguel's you'll find the Beer Store with a giant "Welcome Rock Climbers" sign on the roof.  Eastern Kentucky is very economically depressed so the locals know that climbers bring revenue to an otherwise poor area.  They have embraced the climbing community and you feel the warm welcome as soon as you exit Mountain Parkway.

Miguel's Pizza.  The BEST camping, company, and cuisine in the Gorge!  Miguel opened up his little pizza shop a few decades ago and welcomed climbers to eat and sleep climbing on his property.  The make-your-own pizza hits the spot at the end of a hard day of climbing.  When I started coming to the Red in 2007 it was just a small house with a big backyard of tents.  Miguel has since expanded into the adjacent field and built a large bath house complete with token showers (Hallelujah!), an industrial kitchen, washer/dryers, and dining area.  You'll meet new people from the world over that heard about this climbing Mecca and are looking to share the beta.

Kentucky is good people.  Let me explain.  On my first trip to the Red, we met some "good ol' boys" who were climbing with us at The Shire.  They prayed prior to climbing and were very friendly and welcoming.  When my buddy left his brand new $100 shoes at the crag, the G.O.B's drove all the way to Miguel's to deliver them because they knew that's where we were staying.  Their generosity saved the trip.  Likewise, after moving to Louisville, I met my new climbing partners when chit-chatting with strangers in Muir Valley and come to find out that one guy lives three blocks from me.  Instant friends.  Last week I just met some guys from DC who gave me the skinny on the climbing community in the city.  And the cherry on top of the cupcake was when a stranger approached me and asked if I was Becky... Err, yes, I am.  She was from NC and reads Local Townie.  Small worlds collide in Kentucky.

So you see, there is a reason that climbers flock from all over the world to experience the Red River Gorge. It's because it feels like home.

Adventures with P. Diddy

You want to know a secret Patty?

Sure.

Sometimes when I'm on car trips, I pretend like I'm still in Tanzania.

Really?  

Yea.  Is that weird.

I dunno.  Kinda

[clash bang scrape blow out scrreeech]

Oh [snap]

What was that?

Blow out.

Uh what are we supposed to do now.

You're not going to do anything.  I'm going to change it and you're going to sit here because we're on the side of the road and I don't want you to get hit by a semi.  Unless you want to go pee in the woods down there.

No, there might be bears.

I hate wild animals.

You're really fast.
I know.
That was a compliment.
Well that was my fourth.  Look, I need to stop and get another spare.  I'm not trying to have another blow out on this godforsaken highway and get stranded here.  This is the boonies.  And I've got precious cargo.  We'll stop up here, I know a place.
Aw, you think I'm precious cargo?
No, I've got my climbing gear in the back.
It smells like burning rubber.  Or maybe your air freshener.
Both.
...
Uh is this it?

Yea I think these guys have a tire that will fit.
This is Tanzania.  Except they have double wides instead of huts.
They're just good ol' boys.
They think you're a city slicker.
What do you think they think of you?
That I'm a priss.
You are.
NO I AM NOT!  Just because I can't change a tire or kill a bear with my bare hands does not make me a priss.
Ok.
Hey, you guys rock climbers?
Yea.
Well how do you get that rope up there?
This would be a one star trip if it weren't for the Rollings Stones playing out the side of that Dodge Neon.
I think that guy just pulled a knife on his friend.
We should go.
Yup.

Did you find your shoes?
Nope.
Oh, sorry.
Yea and some briar patch cut the [snot] out of my arm on the way down.  How was your nap?
Great.
...
I think we make a left to cut through the Gorge to Muir Valley.
Uh, that's a dead end.
This would totally be a one star trip if it weren't for such gorgeous weather.

 This was my first lead route.
What was the name again?
Mr. Bungle
I give it three stars.
Overall 3 star day.
Word.
Let's hit the road.  Margaritas or a giant Pacifico?

Red River Gorgeous

Fall means it's climbing season!  Time for the summer heat to dissipate and the crisp mornings to put fog on your breath.  My first ever trip to the Red River Gorge was in the fall of 2007 and I fell in love with the colors and the way the sunshine warmed your back on the exposed rock.  This trip did not have as much sunshine, but it certainly did not lack in amazing climbing.

  

 I should first show my appreciation for my climbing friends.  Without Patrick and Chris (below), I would be miserable and have super weak forearms.  When we met during my July trip to the Red, we became instantaneous friends-- even sharing phone numbers at the crag! So when they extended the invitation to join their yearly fall RRG trip, I changed around my schedule to get down for a few days.

The boys had been dreaming of Creature Feature (Phantasia Wall, 5.9, four stars) at night for nearly a  year.  Creature is right!  Bugs, spiders, and creepy crawly things skirted out of the light of our head lamps as we mantled the roof and flew over the rest of the plates to the rings.  

My crowning glory of the weekend was a 5.10 in Pendergrass Murray Recreational Preserve named Brown Eyed Girl at Chika Bonita Wall (four stars in the book, five stars in my opinion).   We had been playing on some .7's and .9's under a roof all day, trying to avoid the rain.  As we were finishing up the last routes, Patrick came from around the corner where he had found a protected 5.10 slab-- my favorite!

After climbing it once, I told Patty that I knew I could lead it.  "Well what are you waiting for?"  Uh.  Ok...  So I sent it.

As a girl, I feel like slab highlights the best of my climbing abilities.  I love the yoga-y moves that take lots of balance and flexibility.  A good foot-hand match also looks pretty and seems to impress the boys that can barely touch their toes.

So this green eyed girl showed that it's not only Brown Eyed Girls that make the Red River gorgeous.