Why the Red River Gorge is the BEST climbing in the world

I've traveled the world to pursue one of my greatest passions: Climbing.  

I've been to Peru, New Hampshire, Washington, Colorado, West Virginia, Virginia, and many places in North Carolina (Looking Glass, Ship Rock, Ashboro, Pilot, Rumbling Bald)... But of everywhere I've been climbing, there is no place I love more than the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.  This is why...

For starters, it is serenely beautiful.  I have been climbing in every month but January in the Red and each month showed a changing season and beautiful weather.  Even mid-July had its perks because there is a great swimming hole right off Mountain Parkway just a few exits down from Slade.  If you know how to plan your trip right, you can find a face with morning sun and afternoon shade so that you stay cool in the warm months.  Likewise, knowing the rainy day locations is crucial.  My personal favorite rainy day spot is Chica Bonita in Pendegrass (plus it has my favorite route: Brown Eyed Girl 5.10b slab).

The Rock.  The Red River Gorge is varied depending on what area of the gorge you are climbing in.  There is wonderful sandstone with huecos, plates, cracks, overhangs, and my personal favorite, slab.  With tons of trad and sport climbing ranging from 5.4 to a 5.15a (Southern Smoke Direct) that was placed last fall, it doesn't matter what kind of climber you are, you can find a classic five-star route in the Red.  What's more is that each area is very different.  Muir Valley has the greatest access to the most variety and the Webers have done a wonderful job of protecting the land.  The local Access Fund has done a tremendous job in maintaining the area and keeping developers out.  New routes and first ascents are still being tackled every year so the area continues to grow.

The Red River Gorge climbing guide by Ray Ellington is phenomenal.  The map, directions, and ratings are for the most part spot on and he gives you the important details of any climbing trip in the Red like the top 10 classic routes, a checklist of routes, stats on the approach/weather/ratings at each crag, and quality pictures that make you want to be a model in the next volume.  It is totally worth the $35.  And yes, there is an app for that.

 Ale 81: Kentucky's take on ginger ale is a staple to the end of any good climbing day.  Rehashing the day's journeys through cruxes and red points would not be the same without sipping on an 'Ale eight' with your buds.  Part of the gorge is in a dry county so Ale 81 is all you can get at some places, but right down KY 31 from Miguel's you'll find the Beer Store with a giant "Welcome Rock Climbers" sign on the roof.  Eastern Kentucky is very economically depressed so the locals know that climbers bring revenue to an otherwise poor area.  They have embraced the climbing community and you feel the warm welcome as soon as you exit Mountain Parkway.

Miguel's Pizza.  The BEST camping, company, and cuisine in the Gorge!  Miguel opened up his little pizza shop a few decades ago and welcomed climbers to eat and sleep climbing on his property.  The make-your-own pizza hits the spot at the end of a hard day of climbing.  When I started coming to the Red in 2007 it was just a small house with a big backyard of tents.  Miguel has since expanded into the adjacent field and built a large bath house complete with token showers (Hallelujah!), an industrial kitchen, washer/dryers, and dining area.  You'll meet new people from the world over that heard about this climbing Mecca and are looking to share the beta.

Kentucky is good people.  Let me explain.  On my first trip to the Red, we met some "good ol' boys" who were climbing with us at The Shire.  They prayed prior to climbing and were very friendly and welcoming.  When my buddy left his brand new $100 shoes at the crag, the G.O.B's drove all the way to Miguel's to deliver them because they knew that's where we were staying.  Their generosity saved the trip.  Likewise, after moving to Louisville, I met my new climbing partners when chit-chatting with strangers in Muir Valley and come to find out that one guy lives three blocks from me.  Instant friends.  Last week I just met some guys from DC who gave me the skinny on the climbing community in the city.  And the cherry on top of the cupcake was when a stranger approached me and asked if I was Becky... Err, yes, I am.  She was from NC and reads Local Townie.  Small worlds collide in Kentucky.

So you see, there is a reason that climbers flock from all over the world to experience the Red River Gorge. It's because it feels like home.